Kenton Cool (34) has been climbing for 14 years and in this time has established himself as one of the UK’s leading alpine climbers with an impressive list of difficult ascents. In recent years, Kenton, who bases himself in London and Chamonix, has accomplished significant first ascents in Alaska, India, Pakistan and Nepal.

These ascents reached a peak in 2003 with a major new route on Annapurna III (7,555m) for which Kenton, along with his two partners, were nominated for the prestigious Piolet D’Or Award in France – an international award given to the best alpine-style ascent of the year. Kenton has been a popular and successful Expedition guide, having led a number of teams to summits in Nepal, including Ama Dablam.

In May 2006 Kenton became the first and only Briton to climb Everest three times – each time accompanied by lucky mascot Stripey Mouse. In October 2006, Kenton made the first British ski descent of an 8,000m peak. And if that’s not enough, in 2007, Kenton summited Everest twice – successfully guiding all Dream Guides’ clients to the top and in the process bringing his summit tally to five.

In March 2007 Kenton teamed up with Sir Ranulph Fiennes to tackle the notorious North face of the Eiger. During the challenge Ran described Cool as: “one of the finest and at times the bossiest mountain guides I’ve ever had the pleasure to sleep with on a three foot ledge.” Three weeks later Cool was on the summit of Everest… twice within seven days.

When Ran asked Kenton to lead his Everest expedition for Marie Curie Cancer Care he jumped at the chance. He said: “It was a no brainer. He’s Ranulph Fiennes. I’ve climbed with him for two-and-a-half years. I’ve got a good working relationship and friendship with him. If it wasn’t me that was going to guide him and something went wrong I’d feel terrible. I virtually have a moral obligation to him.”

Kenton’s many successes are even more remarkable when taking into account the fact that in 1996 he was involved in a serious climbing accident in North Wales in which he shattered both his heel bones. Kenton was told he would never walk without the aid of a stick and would certainly never climb again. Three operations, four weeks in hospital and three and half months in a wheel chair later and Kenton has certainly proved all the experts wrong.