The gory stuff
Frostbite
Frostbite typically occurs in the hands, feet and sometimes the face. The skin turns cloudy white and becomes numb. At this stage the tissue is frozen but not yet dead.
Frostbite is thawed in cool water slowly heated to lukewarm – if the tissue thaws too fast, in too hot water, it will die of oxygen deprivation. In addition to thawing, antibiotics help prevent infection.
A natural remedy for frostbitten body parts is to warm them in the armpits of a fellow climber. Well, that’s what friends are for!
In advanced frostbite the skin becomes black and blisters. At this stage nothing can be done to restore blood flow.
Hypothermia
Cold temperatures and strong winds can cause the body to rapidly lose heat. One of the first warning signs is extreme shivering as the body struggles to generate heat. Hypothermia can kill in only 30 minutes, how fast you perish depends on how rapidly your body temperature drops.
If it drops to 35 degrees Celsius, the shivering stops as the body maintains temperature around the vital organs: the heart, lungs and brain. Symptoms are dizziness and disorientation with a lack of circulation in the arms and legs.
At 30 degrees Celsius, the pulse is weak and slow and the body becomes hot before losing consciousness. At 24 degrees Celsius the heart stops beating.
Acclimatisation
Acclimatisation involves ascending at a steady, measured pace with staggered periods of rest at different altitudes. It is essential to avoid serious altitude sickness.
As altitude increases and the air thins, the amount of oxygen per breath is reduced and the lungs, blood system and brain functioning are put under considerable pressure.
Acute mountain sickness is the result of ascending faster than the body can adapt. A range of horrible symptoms includes: headaches accompanied by dizziness, vomiting, fainting, persistent coughing, difficulty walking or sleeping and confusion.
If it goes unchecked, acute mountain sickness can lead to conditions called High Altitude Cerebral and Pulmonary Edema. These are caused by fluid collecting in the brain and/or lungs and both can kill fast.
Nose bleeds
Due to the increased pressure in the blood vessels, it is likely that your nose will bleed constantly. The blood then congeals which makes it harder to breathe.
Khumbu cough
The Khumbu cough is a constant, hacking, tickly cough caused by the dry air. It is impossible to get rid of until you lose altitude.





